Sunday, December 20, 2009

How to dress like a Worth:

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A Worth beauty in all her glory

The House of Worth, alas, did not design for men, so our aspirational gentlemen who wish to emulate the Worth ideal must content themselves with the very sleekest of white tie attire.

The Worth lady was the picture of classical, feminine beauty. Worth favoured sumptuous ornamentation, so most of his garments featured rich fabrics with ornate patterns, and vast quantities of lace, ruffles, pleats or other trimming.

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Rich fabrics, ca 1890

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Ruffles, trims, and ornate detailing, ca 1903

Worth's clients included the famously skinny and shapeless Sarah Bernhardt, but it is no secret that he preferred to dress the more curvaceous and Junoesque ideal Victorian figure. The Worth aesthetic is a great choice if you wish to highlight your bosom, waist, and hips.
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The Divine Sarah in yellow and black Worth

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Corsets and Worth details add curves to Sarah's figure

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Lillie Langtry shows off the assets that made her famous, 1888

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Langtry's famous figure

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Unlike Poiret's clothes, Worth's dresses were finished to the highest standard, so it is much harder to replicate them. Look for lacy, frilly blouses, or structured, corseted bodices. Skirts should be long and trailing, with flared A-line shapes like upturned calla lilies, or slimmer, clingier shapes if you are going for a very late 1910s House of Worth shape.

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A flared A-line, ca 1903

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An upturned calla lily shape in red velvet, ca 1895

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20th century slimness, ca 1912

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A later Worth silhouette, ca 1910

Colours: Muted and restrained blues, pinks, yellows and greens. Colours which tiptoe the line between sophistication and pastel-sweetness. All shades of white, cream, and gold. Black (particularly paired with pale pastels or white). Dark red if you are feeling feisty.

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Sophisticated sapphire blue

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Muted peach and gold, ca 1900

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Silver-white with embroidery and gold sequins, ca 1903

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Rich goldenrod yellow, ca 1897

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Gold and pastels with black, ca 1914

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Cream and black, ca 1910

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Dark red velvet, ca 1902

Accessories: Long gloves, folding fans

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A Worth model tricked out with all the trimmings: gloves, fan, jewellery, and frills, 1893

Hair: In keeping with the feminine aesthetic, pile the hair in a full, loose pompadour bun on the top of the head, and ornament with hair jewels.


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The Comtesse de Greffulhe models her black velvet Worth gown with ivory satin lilies in two 1896 images by Paul Nadar

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3 comments:

  1. Wow those are some pretty dresses. Sometimes I think it's a pitty no one gets dressed up anymore... Even the squadron Christmas party I went to had very few people dressed up. It was a little sad

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  2. I love Worth's gowns...they are so beautiful.

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  3. I'm working on a Victorian day dress and evening dress for a Reenacting Society where I'll be playing a stylish French actress who does some modeling for Worth and this blog post is very helpful to me. Great photos. Thank you!

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