Art Nouveau designers: Poiret

Paul Poiret was the innovative and avant garde fashion designer of the first few decades of the 20th century. His influence and innovations have often been overlooked or credited to other fashion designers (like Chanel), but recent years have seen a resurgence of interest in Poiret and the way he revolutionised fashion.

Two variants on Poiret's famous 'Sorbet' design.

Poiret believed in simple, comfortable styles, and a relaxed, unfettered female silhouette. From 1893 to 1903 he worked for the fashion houses of Doucet and Worth, but his style was seen as too modern and brazen, and he left to establish his own fashion house.

An early, more formal Poiret design.

Poiret is noted for his invention of the kimono coat, a cocoon-like garment inspired by the Japanese kimono, his championing of a simple, uncorseted silhouette, and his use of layers, harem pants and straight and lampshade tunics. He pioneered garments cut from simple rectangles of fabric, and draping designs rather than pattern-making.



His use of artists such as Paul Iribe to advertise his designs created many memorable illustrations.

A Paul Iribe design.

Poiret believed that the overall effect that an ensemble created was more important than the finishing details of a garment, so his style can be easily replicated in a simple and rough manner.



Poiret's styles can be worn by most figures, but were created with the slim, tall figure of his ideal, his wife Denise, in mind.

A Poiret model in an ensemble.

Poiret's fashions were easy and comfortable to wear, but often had an exotic, fantastical twist, so are perfect for dancing the night away at an Art Nouveau Masquerade Ball (and coincidentally, Poiret loved to throw elaborate costume balls with exotic themes).

Harem pants.

Coming on Sunday: dressing like a Poiret!